對外交流에서 나타난 渤海의 衣料 고찰-對唐ㆍ對日 관계를 중심으로-

The Study on the Textiles of Parhae through the International Relation- Focused on the Relation for Tang and Ancient Japan -

This study is considered about the textiles of Parhae through international relation for ancient Japan and Tang. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae(渤海) to Tang(唐) and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowha(暗摸靴), Gu(?) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae’s clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara(奈良) Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich and authority. On the other hand, the system of official uniform was formed in 739～742 A.D. by the prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang and the various items and clothes made out of the textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(官服) of Parhae. It might be because the 3th King Mun(文王) in Parhae accepted the Tang's culture positively. So, Tang's culture could affect Parhae's and this costume system also may be established at that time. Meanwhile, the clothes from Japan to Parhae were mostly silk products, which were generally the high-quality fabric such as Reng(綾) and Ra(羅), and the silk and hemp easily fabricated, and were also imported for the costume to be fit for Sangbok(常服) system of Tang. For the official uniform of the governors at high ranks in Parhae, the fabric like Reng or Ra might be used as well as in Tang, however, Parhae producing only the fabric such as Ju(紬) and Po(布) had to satisfy the lack of high-quality silk products through the import from Japan.