조선시대 여자 수식(首飾)에 사용한 장신구에 대한 연구

A Study on the Ornaments used to Decorate hair by Women in Joseon Dynasty

&nbsp;&nbsp;Ornaments to decorate hairs, which women in Joseon Dynasty used, reflect the outlook on life of people who lived at that time. the Confucianism-oriented ideology was expressed in various forms, which had people consider even a hair very precious as an expression of filial devotion and respect of courtesy. Using the ornaments for hairs at that time is deemed to be a means to show off the wealth and status, as well as a medium of aesthetic expression, because such ornaments were available only to the wealthy.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;hairpin, slant hairpin, back-hair hairpin and others which women of Josen Dynastry used to decorate hairs are characterized not only by their practical features but also their rich ornamentality. Ornamental elements added to ceremonial decoration of hair began to get seriously luxurious from the mid Joseon Dynasty, and the ban ona wig for women (in a ceremonial occasion) were imposed by King Yong Jo. It is said that the cost spent on a big pompadour and ornaments was so expensive that people might be bankrupt.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;With the ban on a wig for women (in a ceremonial occasion), hairpin came to replace it. Women living in royal court or noble women used ornamental hairpin on the front area of knotted hairs depending on ranks(ladies of court and ladies out of court). Gold or silver ornamental hairpins printed with the patterns of Phoenix, which symbolized the loyal court, were used by queen, princess and wives of high-ranking officials of royal court used the ornamental hairpin plated with the patterns of frog. Wives of relatively lower-ranking officials used the ornamental hairpin plated with the pattern of only head and tail of frog, and court ladies used the silver ornamental hairpin with patterns of frog. Women other than those used only the hairpin for their knotted hairs.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;Hairpin was decorated with various patterns made from gold, silver and other precious metals depending on the seasons. Hairpin for back hairs which had the patterns of plants and vegetations was used by women living in royal court, noble people and ordinary people, depending on the rank of people according to the material or shape. Like this, ornaments for hairs that women of Joseon Dynasty used were crafted for aesthetic purpose outwardly, whereas it symbolized the wealth and status externally and had a strong and distinct implication for distinguishing the class of hierarchical society.