존 갈리아노의 패션쇼에 나타난 해체주의 메이크업에 관한 연구 - 해체주의 메이크업의 이미지적 특성을 중심으로

A Study on the De-constructive Make-up Shown in JohnGalliano’s Fashion Show -Centering on Image Properties of the De-onstructive Make-up Shown-

&nbsp;&nbsp;As he whole culture of contemporary society recognizes diversification and variability rather than a system of absolute value pursuing beauty or truth, all the styles coexist. This is a characteristic of deconstruction that breaks the boundary of order, balance, styles or genre within texts, which has an influence on costume and make-up by including the beauty of ugliness in category of beauty and up-rating the beauty of imperfection as the beauty of this era.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;Of a few designers who realized de-constructive make-up, John Galliano presented creative make-up in which excessively creative experimentalism is highlighted. This study connects properties of de-constructive make-up shown in John Galliano&quot;s fashion show to the deconstruction theory. That is, for the study, the make-ups of Galliano&quot;s fashion show are substituted for difference, intertextuability, undecidability and dis-de phenomenon which are properties of deconstruction developed by Jacques Derrida, and are classified into historicism, circumstantiality, androgyny and decadence. Historicism, which is based on difference of Derrida, borrows the past style, but creates a new image beyond past meaning and symbolism. To speculate historicism of make-up, the following classification is made: white make-up, Kohl make-up, and laceless make-up.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;For white make-up, skin is represented as white with white color and it is sub-categorized as follows: Rocco make-up, Beijing opera make-up and Kabuki make-up. For Kohl make-up, forms and colors are changed and in Raceless make-up, varied ethnic properties co-exit. It is said that circumstantiality is based on undecidability, but it introduces several techniques to deconstruct texts or reorganize de-constructed texts, through the process of which circumstantial beauty is produced.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;Such properties are described as graphic make-up for which simple geometric forms are applied and collage make-up through combination of various materials followed by circumstantiality. For androgyny, the boundary of both the genders is broken and each gender shows distinctive gender image, which is based on inter-textuability. It is described as androgynous make-up.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;Decadence, which is a type of distortion, is an extended meaning of ugliness, and is related to dis-de phenomenon of Derrida. The make-up is categorized into three : Decadence make-up uses tattoo with ugly patters or pale colors, and arouses disgusting feeling through a stimulation of sex. Detester make-up is designed to express vulgar images using feathers, wings or feelers of animals or insects. And, Grotesque make-up is designed to express exaggeration, heterodoxy, awkward, and ambiguity.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;When the de-constructive make-up properties shown in John Galliano&quot;s fashion show are speculated, its make-ups, which are expressed based on the Deconstruction idea, have been accepted in terms of deconstruction of the structure and expressive styles of previous make-up. The deconstruction make-up is a source of infinite inspiration beyond our common sense, and as make-up is highlighted as a type of formative art, it is expected that different trends of make-up which have strong experimental properties will be introduced.