조선시대 쪽머리의 연구 및 재현

A Study on Jjokmeori of the Joseon Dynasty Period and Its Capture

This study is a consideration on jjokmeori(Chignon) which is the most ancient hair style for married woman among the traditional hair styles of Korean women. The historical change in its shape and position from the origin to the present is searched, and six jjokmeoris from the important points of time are reproduced to attempt the grafting of tradition and modern. In the early age of Joseon, both of jjok and binyeo were small. But, since the custom of gache(wig) started, the jjok began to be bigger. It was because the jjok was necessary to connect or support the gache. Under the rules of King Yeongjo and jeongjo, the gache was prohibited and the jjokmeori also suffered a great change. It was because the government recommended the use of jjokmeori and binyeo. During those days, the recommendation was almost coercive. In this process, the jokduri came to be in disuse because of its inconvenience and the chubjimeori instead of it was prevalent. But, it was the case of royal and noble classes.For ordinary people, the jjokmeori became common and was reckoned as a custom since the middle age of King Sunjo. Even until those days the position of jjok was rather arbitrary and gradually went down. While the ancient society fell down later, the jjok went up again to the center of back head. And it became the hair style that every woman could have regardless of her social status till now.