누비 종류에 따른 특징 및 품목 고찰

A Study on the Characteristics of Different 'Nubi' Works and the Items of 'Nubi'

The word of Nubi is originated from '(衲衣)―Buddhist monk's patched and re-patched robe', but today it means a dressmaking-method to quilt cotton between inside and outside fabric. Nubi could be called quilt but it has more complex structures than those of quilt and is generally thought to be a concept of 'Chogagbo'-patchwork wrapping-cloth and embroidery included in it. Compared to quilt, Nubi features broad-stitching or sewing, showing usually repeated forms of stripes, graceful and moderate beauty of space. According to the distance of sewing lines as one of its traditional classifications, Nubi is categorized into JanNubi(thin line), JungNubi(middle sized-line) and DumunNubi(scarce line). And it also could be classified into OmokNubi, NabjakNubi by the forms of sewing. The classification of Nubi based on the existence of cotton, how to sew and the directions of lines was all newly made in modern era. Gungjungbalgi shows that JanNubi is usually applied to Nubi items(54%) but most Nubi dress items that have been discovered until now are generally JungNubi(68%), which means the Chosun's Royal family used refined JanNubi whileJungNubi for the general citizens and the gentry. A close look at the ancient documents of the Joseon Dynasty reveals that quilting was used in various items. In particular, quilting was prominently found in underwear, robes and bedclothes. The main purpose of those items is to keep the body warm. A kind of deep quilt-stitching was not used in the belt part of traditional Korean clothes. The elasticity possessed by the deep quilt-stitching was not proper in the belt part of traditional Korean clothes because the belt provided a function of tightening the breast of woman. On the other hand, the deep quilt-stitching was widely found in underpants of the royal family since its elasticity made it easy to put on or take off underpants.