복식에서의 장신구 역할 및 미적 기능성에 관한 연구

A Study of the Role and Beautification of the Jewelry in the Costume -Centered on the ancient jewelry from the view of modern metalcraft-

In Ancient time, the jewelry is made to decorate human body. Th e beg inning of j ewelry is started to give spec ial rol e as to hel p dress and its orname nts; es pec ia lly as the ro le of accents. To wearth e jewelry as the hard material s from anima ls teeth , bo ne s and horns or seashe lls and sto nes is recogn ized to join the magical power from anc ie nt tim e. Th e jewe lry has been told to ha ve the rol e of cha rm or decor ati on. And , in a nc ie nt time , th e c ha rm and de corat ion had se ldom been d iscerned. In modern situation, it is not easy to say that the accessory for beauty doesn ' t have the meanin g of charm. We are expe ctin g unconsciously the power getting rid of the bad and to jo in between human and jewelr y. Therefore, the ancient jewelry ' s roles are considered two parts as the magical power and decoration. We could find the ancient jewelry for decorati on in the burial accessories. The part of the decoration design is gem. It is very interes ting to find the reflect ion of the art mode from the small world of gem. But we need to think that the jam is to wear or to attach in the body that it is not remote from our sense as the painting. Of course that there are big size cross to be attached by gems not to wear for the body, but majority of the gem jewellery are jewels to decorate human body. Therefore all the jewelry has deep relation or the motivation of human body shape of it. It' s shape has been decided and deve loped as how to fit the part of the body. For example, the ring, the decorate material, is to be made to fit for the fingers. We could thing the theory of the space of gem as to the part of the body accor ding to the di vision of jewelry. There are specia l meanings and shapes like the crow n for head, earring, necklace. ring and armlet. The important thing in these ancient jewelry is the individual taste of it is subordinated hy the community taste. According to the taste of the individual and community, the role and beautiful point could he changed; and the specification of jewe lry could emphasize the role of beauti fication strongly.