고대 한국 帶의 종류와 특징

Classifying belts in ancient Korea and looking into their characteristics

The research on many kinds of belts in ancient Korea and their characteristics has revealed falsification of the previously accepted hypothesis, the claim that belts in ancient Korea were made under the influence of northward countries or ancient China. The differences between the belts in ancient Korea and those of in other territories are clear: Peoples residing in northward territory did not always wore belts as part of their outfits, and when they did, they wore narrow strip-like belts tied with a knot on the front of their body, leaving knots hanging short. Afterwards, belts of these peoples came to be mostly Sok-dae, belts for adjusting and tying up outfits, and accordingly buckles for Sok-dae were produced in sophisticated forms. These belts of northward peoples were rapidly passed on to China in the Ch`un Ch`iu period and those Chinese people in Ch`in and Chao and Yen where the border of China even accepted the clothing styles of these three countries. In Inner Mongolia, belts were used earlier than in Outer Mongolia; this is thought to be the result of the influence of Ko-Choson. Until the period that corresponds with the Ch`un Ch`iu period in China, they used Yao-dae and Gin-dae, and starting from the dynasties in north and south, it became common to use Gin-dae with Gio-chiu. In the Han period, belts in China often had Sui and were mainly for decorative purpose whereas belt styles from northward countries were applied to belt-shaped sword cases. However, when northward peoples came to claim territory as far as Hwang-ha river area, clothing style from the countries to the west of China became popular. In this process, belts from the countries to the west of China were also came to China and even became official attires in Dang dynasty. This also affected Korean peninsula. In Kokuryo, when people needed to adjust their outfits, they wore long and thin belts, leaving the knots hanging long. Otherwise, they didn't wear belts at all. By this, we can be assured these long belts Kokuryo people used were for adjusting outfits, not for carrying swords. They could wear belts at any part of their body, and people from different social hierarchies all wore the same kind of belt. This nondiscrimination of hierarchy in outfits stems from the uniqueness of Korean outfit style. However, in Pyungyang, which was under the influence of China, soldiers in murals on tombwalls are found to wear traditional Kokuryo-style narrow strip-like belts. In contrast, officials nearby the buried person are pictured wearing T-shaped belts, just like those of China, in addtion to their traditional kokuryo belts. Ko-Choson preceded China in making belt loops that look like long looks, which are found in Korean peninsula and Manju area, where Ko-Choson had subjucated before. Also, belt loops found near those areas usually have no patterns or engravings on their surface. These contrast with belts loops in China which feature decorative patterns and engravings. It is not until in the dynasties in north and south that belts loops appear in northward region. Belt loops in this region, found very rarely, are characteristic with their animal shapes. The time gap and the different shapes of belt loops in Ko-Choson, China, and in northward region testify for the fact that belt loops of Ko-Choson was not formed under the influence of China or northward countries. By 3C. A.D, belt loops shaped like long hoops, which had been largely used in Korean peninsula and Manju area, gradually disappear. And peach-shaped belt loops, which had been in use mainly in Kokuryo since early Ko-Choson period, became developed enough to take over long hoop-like belt loops.