肖像畵를 통해 본 麗末鮮初 冠服

Official Costume(冠服) in the End of the Koryo Dynasty and the Early Years of the Joseon Dynasty through the Portraits

麗末鮮初의 복식연구는 한국복식사에 있어서 가장 취약한 부분이다. 이는 자료의 부족이 가장 큰 원인이라 할 수 있다. 특히 시각자료는 더욱 제한 적이어서 고려시대의 복식을 완벽하게 밝히는 데에는 한계가 있다. 이러한 상황에서 포은 정몽주 초상화를 비롯하여 한국학중앙연구원 장서각에 기증기탁된 자료 중 여말선초에 활동했던 성주 이씨 가문의 초상화 및 현전하는 여말선초의 초상화들은 여말선초의 복식형태를 밝히는 중요한 자료이다. 이에 본 연구에서는 여말선초의 관복이 어떻게 도입ㆍ제정되었으며, 관복의 용도 및 형태가 어떻게 변화되었는지를 문헌고찰과 함께 시각자료를 연구대상으로 하여 고찰하였으며, 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 여말선초는 우리나라의 관복이 호복을 혁파하고 명대복식의 영향을 받아 관복이 개정된 시기로 관복은 사모와 단령으로 구성되었으며, 여기에 品階에 따라 帶를 띠고 靴를 신었다. 둘째, 고려말 명에서 들여 온 관복은 公服으로서의 역할을 담당하였다. 이에 삭망ㆍ진하ㆍ사신접대 등에 착용하였으나 점차 대사ㆍ동지 등 그 용도가 다양해지면서, 공복으로서의 관복은 시사복으로서의 역할을 담당하였다. 이에 복색에 있어서도 담홍색으로 변화하는 등 공복의 착용이 허술해지자 복식의 정비가 요구되었으며, 이에 따라 단령에 흉배를 달아 常服으로 착용하게 되었다. 셋째, 현전하는 여말선초 인물들의 초상화를 분석한 결과 모자는 립과 사모가 공존하다가 조선초가 되어 사모로 바뀌게 되었으며, 단령은 복색과 帶의 소재에 따라 품급을 구별하였다. 또한 단령의 형태는 바튼 단령으로 여말선초의 변화는 보이지 않으며, 소매의 형태는 길고 좁으며, 화는 검은색 목화를 신었다.

The study of official costume of the End of Koryo Dynasty and the Early Years of Joseon Dynasty is the weak part in the history of Korean dress. The main reason is because of the lack of data. Moreover, the visual data are more limited, so it has the limitation to completely discover the garments in the Koryo Dynasty. In this circumstance, I researched the shapes of the official outfits in the End of the Koryo and the Early Years of Joseon based on the Portraits of Jeong Do-Jeon, Lee Ji-Ran, etc. as well as the Portraits of Sungju Lee’s family donated at Jang Seo Gak in The Academy of Korean Studies. Above all, the Portraits, which were drawn by the painters when these figures were determined as the meritorious subjects at the founding of a dynasty, are especially useful as the research materials, even though they were retraced various times. Therefore, this study will show how the official outfits were introduced and determined in the End of the Koryo and the Early Years of Joseon, how the usages and shapes of them had been changed with researching the references as well as studying the Portraits as the objects of study, and the results are as follow. First, the End of Koryo and the Early Years of Joseon is the time when the Korean official outfits broke the Chinese garments and were revised with the influence of the garments of the Ming Dynasty. The Korean official outfits were composed of Samo(the official hat) and Danryung(the outfits with the round collar) with Dae(the belt) and Hwa(the shoes) in accordance with the official rank. Second, the official outfits from the Ming at the End of the Koryo had the role of the public outfits. Therefore, the officers wore them at Sakmang (the memorial rites held on the first and the fifteenth days of the lunar monty), Jinha (the celebrations of the national events), receiving the envoys, etc. Later, the outfits had more usages such as the major events, Dongji (the winter solstice), etc. and had the role of the official uniforms. Therefore, the modification of the garments were necessary because the wearing the public outfits was not right like changing the color into rose pink, etc., and they were used as the routine garments with hanging Hyungbae (the embroidered patches on the breast and on the back of official uniforms) at Danryung. Third, according to the results from the analysis of the currently passed down Portaits of the figures in the End of the Koryo and the Early Years of the Joseon, Rib and Samo coexisted first, but in the Early Years of the Joseon, the hats were all changed as Samo. Danruyng was distinguished the official grades by the colors and the materials of Dae. In addition, the shapes of Danryung was the Batton Danryung, which was not changed in the End of the Koryo and the Early Years of the Joseon, the sleeves were long and narrow and Hwa were the black wooden shoes.