裝飾藝術이 Paul Poiret의 服飾디자인에 미친 영향

The influences of Decorative Art on the Fashion Design of Paul Poiret

This thesis is on the relation between the undercurrent of arts and the mode in a turning point to 20th century. The changes of the values from the end of 19th century to the 20th century has caused the collapse of the existing values on the science, humanity, life style and idea. At the transition period, the modern art started. The fineart and mode showed various and complicated phenomena in their way of expressions. It will be meaningful to analize this changes of arts and mode on the present point of view, and to search the roots of current mode and aesthetic sence. The costume in the 20th centruy seems to start with ‘Art Nouveau’ and ‘Art Deco’, ‘Purity’ corresponding with the undercurrent of modern art has been investigated through couturier Paul Poiret’s work who played an revolutional role in the changing period from the end of 19th century to the 20th century. Paul Poiret has the modern expression by presenting new form, which is considered as a trend to purity in the costume as well as in their arts. His modern idea has been shown in body’s natural beauty without corset, but has been limited by excessive ornamentation and restraint of body (hobble skirt). One the other hand, he has opened new horizon on color influenced by the orientalism. The color has been the important characteristic of the mode, resulted from using the primary and from Russian ballet, China, Japan, Persia, Morocco. However, he has failed in understanding of the social changes and of the real idea of Art Deco, because he didn’t recognize the real functionalism and the importance of the new spirit(Esprit Nouveau). Notwithstanding his failure, he has been called a originator of the modern fashion, considering that he originally tried to combine the art factors like form and color. Furthermore we can find the sources of modern fashion and aesthetic sense in Poiret’s works which is connected with the decorative art, Art Deco. The sources of modern fashion and aesthetic sense in the beginning 20th century, is Art Deco, after all.