러프 칼라의 유형 고찰

A Review of Various Types of Ruff Collar

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The transformation of a ruff collar is divided into three periods. At the 1st period of the stages(1560~1580), when a ruff broke away from a shirt and assumed a practical form. The ruff grew bigger and higher up enough to reach the ear. In addition, a unique ruff called a Medici collar and a queen Elizabeth collar were introduced in France and England. At the 2st period(1581~1600), as the heyday of a ruff, various exaggerated forms and decorations appeared. French women weared a Medici collar that appeared in overall the time. In England, a tubular and a Rebeto style together with a Queen Elizabeth collar appeared. The 3st period(1601~1630) was the time that the shape of a ruff became slim and small, and various materials were used. Finally, both the Medici collar in France and the Queen Elizabeth collar in England were changed to be flat and slim. At the 4th period(1980~2001), the ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. It was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Especially, the spanish round ruff appeared on works by a lot of designers, various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis Féraud. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.