『樂學軌範』 服飾과 儀物의 색채

Color Patterns of Traditional Dress (服飾) and Ceremonial Objects (儀物) in the Akhakgwebeom (樂學軌範)

The purpose of this study is to closely examine the coloring of traditional dress styles, instruments, pennants, and other ceremonial objects used during Korean musical performances documented in the Akhakgwebeom. In this research study, the coloring of traditional dress and other ceremonial objects are investigated in each of the performances that have been documented in the Akhakgwebeom. Methodologically, considering all the colors that are mentioned in the Akhakgwebeom, I have selected several colors and categorized them by performance as well as examined them systematically. In addition, through the use of the Photoshop computer software program, these colors are presented as they would look dyed on fabrics and printed on paper. Finally, the colors that are referenced in the Akhakgwebeom generally can be seen as an application of the system of Obangsaek (五方色) or “Colors of the Five Directions.” Also belonging to this system is Ogansaek (五間色), or “Five In-Between Space Colors,” which is also used in some instances. Among the colors in the Obangsaek system, red and other hues within the bright red color group are applied the most often. Also through the composite color system, composite colors are not mixed and used, but rather colors such as gold, gold-plated copper, silver, pearl, etc., are diversely applied in the manner of flower and plant designs, drawings, and embroidery in the design of traditional dress. The least frequently applied colors are black and yellow. This is most likely because black was used in mourning dress and funeral garments and the colors yellow and gold were the reserved for the emperor.