『樂學軌範』 服飾 연구

A Study of the Costumes of Akhakkwebeom

In the court of the Joseon period, a number of banquets often took place and dance, song, and music were performed together, and each time the uigwe, which contained pictures of these events, was produced. Akhakkwebeom is consisted of 3 books of 9 volumes and whereas other uigwe mainly depict the scenes of various events, Akhakkwebeom deals with music in general and also discusses the measurement, color, user, function, and material of the costumes. Information on the costumes is offered briefly in volumes 3, 4, and 5, and in volume 2 the props used by the singers and dancers are illustrated. Volumes 8 and 9 contain detail explanation, and especially in volume 9, thirty pictures and illustrations are included. Thus, this paper focused on volumes 2, 8, and 9 and also discussed volumes 3, 4, and 5 as well. Moreover, the pobaek ruler was used for measurement. Those who wear costumes are the musicians, the female entertainers, and the dancers such as the akkwan, aksa, akkong, yeogi, yeonsogi, yeonjanggi, dongnyeo, mudong, cheonghak, and obangcheoyong. The differences of the costumes are based on the use of different types of music such as aak, sogak, oryeui, and the dangak and hyangak of the King Seongjong period. This paper examined the constitution of the Akhakkwebeom, various costumes according to different types of music, costumes that appear in the pictures, and the division of the costumes by style. The Akhakkwebeom should be highly regarded in that it discusses the name, measurement, color, user, function, and the material of the performers costumes. In particular, the costumes are crucial resources since they are part of comprehensive arts that include musical instruments, songs, and dances. However, in places the style and the name of the same costume appears differently. For instance, the middle of a shoe is called either hwa or hye; the same costume of a government official is referred to as ui or sam depending on the material, color, and the situation of dressing. These inconsistencies remain to be studied.