남자저고리 원형설계의 표준화를 위한 연구

A Study on the Standardized Pattern Design of Men s Korean Jackets

The oblique line of collars in Men s jackets is a central part to influence compositional beauty as well as a balancing point of clothing. So, understanding of relation between the collar and other parts is important to understand whole composition of jackets. So far, the intersection of right and left collars of jackets has been unsymmetrical. In this situation, the exceptional improvement of collar composition can lead to scientific composition of Korean Jackets. There are a variety of drawing techniques to make jackets, but among them, only one technique has been used as materials of teaching and learning in education. However, a limitation of the drawing technique is that right and left collars are unsymmetrical. Also, the broader the collar, the further unbalance appears. It is because changing point of collar breadth is on the inner line of the collar and the collar depends on the breadth of jackets to be standardized through improving what is unreasonable for standardization based on existing studies. The results are as follows : (1) Changing point of collar breadth should be on the outer line of the collar. (2) Breadth of outer collar depends on breadth of collar. (3) Vertical point that extends a point of the armpit and of collar Godae is a standard of pattern design and determines general composition such as location of collar, intersection of collar, length of jackets, length of the side, length of the back, sleeves, the strip along the sleeve-seam. Doryeon and so forth. (4) The exposure of the front neck can be adjusted. In this pattern design, a method of calculation is easier, compared with other methods and apparent symmetry of collars is achieved. And, as exposure of front neck is adjustable, drawing is possible to one s taste. The development of this design can contribute to standardization of Korean jacket patterns.