로코코시대의 여성복 실물제작에 대한 고찰

A Study on Actual Production of Rococo Women’s Costume - Focused on the Jacket -

Characteristics of Rococo style costume in patterns are firstly, characteristics of 1735∼1740 s jackets are; front facing covers front body from 11cm down from neck front neck point to center waist; cutting in curve from the position located 4cm and 5cm down from center front/back body waist to side seam; making pleats and flares at yoke side panel; wires inserted at center back body panel which stretch down 6.1cm from front/back yoke center; double cuffs measuring 39.1cm length 32cm opening; turn back cuffs. Secondly, 1760∼1770’s jackets characteristics are round neck connecting the point 15cm down front neck center and the point 6cm toward shoulder point from side neck point; center back body panel and back side body panel are made by cutting back panel from waist line following princess line to the bottom; measurement of body length from waist line are 25.9cm for front and 25cm for back’ 9.7cm and 9.8cm flares are located at center back and princess line; godets are located under dart at waist side line; shoulder length is 26.9cm; wrinkles at back shoulder top and whole 31.3cm sleeve opening; turn back cuffs are 47.8cm length, 20.2cm width and 3 single pleats. Thirdly, 1770∼1785’s jackets characteristics are U shape neckline connecting the point 20cm down from front neck point and the point 5cm toward shoulder point from side neck point; front body length from waist is 58cm; wrap is located at the point 2.5cm to the side and then 15cm downward and then 5.6cm and 1.3cm inward from waistline; single pleats at 5cm from waist center hip line and 10.5cm from bottom; back side line is rolled making quite wide spread pleats to form flare. Characteristics of sleeve are moving side line to back panel and reverse ˄(2.5cm) shape dart at center sleeve opening.