교수ㆍ학습자료에 나타난 저고리 원형제도의 문제점 고찰

A study on men’s and women’s Jŏ-go-ri basic pattern drafting method and its practical problems

We consider the irrational part of the basic pattern drafting method of men’s women’s Jo-go-ri so that we want to design it more scientifically. So there are problems which is found after we considered with comparison about the indistinctly basic pattern drafting method of Men’s and Women’s Jo-go-ri. As a fundamental study to develop the basic pattern drafting method of Mem’s and Women’s Jo-go-ri and to indicate its illogical formation and errors which are shown on materials for study, I used six other materials that are applicable to university textbook and compared basic pattern formulas to their results. (1) There is a difference between the practical drafting and calculation. (2) The part of the curved line was made indistinctly. (3) There is a difference between the calculating expression and calculating value. (4) there are some parts which lack objectivity about the reference size. (5) The calculating method Collar-width and Neck-width are not formative and rational. I propose those who are willing to study the pattern of Jŏ-go-ri, modify or develop it to take the following points into consideration. (1) From the center line of Jŏ-go-ri. Kit(the traditional Korean jacket collar) and Dong-Jŏng must be symmetric. (2) Starting from armhole, the overlapped portion of the reverse side Kit and the right side one must be calculated. (3) Is must be considered that the back neck and that of Kit decide the exposure of a neck. (4) The end of Kit must be designed at right angles on the right side. (5) The Kit must be patterned as a neck shape. (6) The right and left cut edges of the face must be joined into a line. (7) The yield formula of pattern must be standardized.