18세기 한국과 프랑스 여성 장신구의 조형성 비교 연구

A Comparison Between Korean and French Women’s Accessories from the 18th Century

The 18th century’s costume and accessories continued to have a great influence on contemporary fashion design in both East and West. In this paper, the formative characteristics of Eastern and Western accessories were compared by studying selected paintings and portraits from Korea and France which illustrated women from each respective country. Research subjects were initially confined to artworks from the King Yeongjo and the Jeongjo(1724-1799) of Korea, and artworks from the later period of Rococo during the Reign of Louis XVI(1715-1792), France. The pieces of painting by Yunbok Shin(申潤福, 1758-?) and Francois Boucher(1703-1770) were chosen for analysis. For a better understanding, ‘accessories’ were further dived into three sub-categories; clothing accessories, headdresses and shoes. The shapes, materials and colors were compared within each category. As a result, firstly, clothing accessories from both countries showed similarities in that they contained certain symbolic and aesthetic values. This held to be true to a greater extent for ornaments attached to upper garments, than ornaments attached to lower garments. Differences between the two countries were mainly seen in the materials that were used and their color ways. Clothing ornaments from Korea were usually made from fabrics, with an emphasis on using red colors. On the other hand, clothing ornaments from France were made from pearls and other jewelry, while using colors that balanced in with the clothing. Secondly, in both countries, headdresses were commonly used as a way to represent one’s social status. Headdresses of Korea were usually in the form of a black ‘Ga-chae,’ a traditional wig made from human hair, or a ‘Jang-ot,’ a cloth that was draped around the head. Headdresses of France were usually artificial wigs that were white color, or hats that were decorated with flowers and ribbons. Thirdly, fabrics and leathers were the main materials for making shoes in both countries. Shoes from Korea normally had a flat bottom and, although there was no restriction in color ways, the main materials differed depending on one s social status. Shoes from France either had heels or were in the shape of a slipper. In addition, in France, both the colors and the materials differed with social status.