19세기 여성복 드레스 실물제작에 대한 고찰

A Study on the Actual Production of 19th Century Women s Costume Dress

The formal characteristics of 19th century women s costume dress are as follows. First, the dress of 1806～1809 has the square neck line with band of front & back plates which has a great many gather around neck, the front body plate with high waist line which has a great many gather on waist line and the slight gather on the sleeve cap, the back body plate with center line opening and closing with button & string, the button hem line with natural curve and the back plate is longer than the front plate. Second, the dress of 1830～1836 has the V-neck line with scallop collar of front & back plates which has the shirring, the front body plate with natural waist line, large quantities of gather on the sleeve cap, sleeve side line opening closed by hooks, and the bottom hem line which has cotton pad in it. Third, the dress of 1837～1841 has the round neck line, the front body plate which is decorated patches on princess line and should line, a great many of single pleats on the waist line, the back body with the princess line, large quantities of gather on the waist line, back center opening closed by hooks, the 14-line shirring of sleeve cap and the sleeve side line opening and cuffs, now the pattern configuration method and characteristics of 19th women s costume dress are checked. In its configuration through the pattern design, the body plate cutting line was changed to smooth the connection of sectional parts and make it close to the human body. So, we can see that the delicate pattern design technique had been developed. With this actual re-production, the shape features of dress and its pattern configuration could be well captured, which seems to be helpful in studying the western clothing history and pattern as well as the new pattern development. This study was centered on the production process of outer clothing. There were great difficulties in re-producing the aged clothing because the correct configuration method could not be obtained just through the document study. It was also unsatisfactory for us not to use the materials and the accessories fully for each dress type.