천연염료의 복합염색 연구: 포도당 환원 쪽과 괴화를 중심으로

A Study on Combination Dyeing with Natural Dye: Focusing on Indigo Using Glucose Reduction and Japanese Pagoda Tree

This study was conducted to develop eco-friendly fashion fabrics for LOHAS consumers. Silk fabrics were dyed with a combination of natural indigo using glucose reduction and Japanese pagoda tree and treated with mordants afterward. The color characteristics (L * a * b * value, Munsell color system, PCCS tones) of the silk fabrics were analyzed according to the combination dyeing order (Japanese pagoda tree→indigo vs. indigo→Japanese pagoda tree), the concentration of indigo dye (10g/L, 20g/L, 30g/L), and the type of mordants (Al, Cu, Fe, Zn). The silk fabrics showed a green yellow (GY) color regardless of the order in which the two dyes were applied, but the color tone differed depending on the dyeing order. Namely, when Japanese pagoda tree dye was applied first, the color GY had a light grayish tone, but when indigo dye was used first, it had a light tone. Also, the color tone differed according to the concentration of indigo. The color tone of silk fabrics dyed with Japanese pagoda tree first were a light grayish tone, but the color tone of those dyed with indigo first changed from a light tone to a soft tone as the concentration of indigo increased. In addition, the color characteristics of the silk fabrics with combination dyeing showed differences according to the type of mordants. The color of the fabrics that were dyed Japanese pagoda tree first showed a light grayish tone of GY (Al, Cu, Zn) and a grayish tone of GY (Fe). On the other hand, the color of the fabrics that were dyed indigo first showed a bright tone of GY (Al, Zn), a strong tone of yellow (Cu), and a dark grayish tone of Y (Fe).