쪽 생즙액을 이용한 천연염색에서 염색조건이 견직물의 염색특성에 미치는 영향

Effect of Dyeing Conditions on Dyeing Characteristics in Silk during Natural Dyeing Using the Raw Juice of Indigo Plants

쪽 생즙액의 염색조건에 따른 견직물의 염색성을 조사하기 위해 염액온도, 염색시간, 염액농도 염액의 pH, 매염제를 달리하여 견직물을 염색하였다. 염액의 온도에 따른 견직물의 표면색은 온도가 낮을수록 b값이 작아져 -5℃와 상온에서는 녹색(G) 계열로, 40℃ 이상에서는 녹황색(GY) 계열로 발색되었으며, 염착농도는 온도가 높을수록 높았다. 염색시간은 표면색에 영향을 미치지 않았으나 염색시간이 길수록 염착농도는 증가하였다. 염액농도를 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% 로 조정하여 견직물을 염색했을 때는 청록색(BG) 계열로 발색되었으나 5% 에서는 B계열로 발색되었고, 염착농도는 염액의 농도가 높을수록 증가하였다. 염액의 pH에 따른 견직물의 표면색은 pH 7이하에서는 G계열을, pH 8에서는 녹황색(GY)으로, pH 9에서는 황적색(YR) 계열을 나타냈다. 염착농도는 pH가 높을수록 낮아졌다. 매염처리는 견직물의 표면색에 영향을 미쳤으며, 염착농도도 증가시켰다.

In order to investigate effects of dyeing conditions on the dyeing characteristics in silk during natural dyeing using indigo plants , various dyeing conditions including the temperature of dyeing solution, dyeing period, the concentration and pH of dyeing solution and mordants were treated. As the temperature of dyeing solution decreases low, the color of silk surface showed lower b value. The color of silk surface showed G line when the dyeing solution was -5℃ and room temperature and GY line at more than 40℃. Coloring degree increased high as the temperature increases. Dyeing period showed no effect on the surface color, but as dyeing period was longer the coloring degree increased. When the concentration of dyeing solution was 1~4% , the silk was colored to BG line and 5% to B line. The coloring degree increased as the concentration of dyeing solution more increased. The pH of dyeing solution sensitively affected coloring of silk. The pH lower than 7 showed G line, pH 8 showed GY line and pH 9 showed YR line. Coloring degree decreased as pH was more increases. Surface color of silk was different according to the kinds of natural mordants and coloring degree was increased by the natural mordants.