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KCI등재 학술저널

갈옷 연구

A Study on the KalOt

  • 69

환경문제의 중요성이 커지고 있는 시점에서 제주의 전통복식인 갈옷은 소재나 염색방법에서 환경을 보호할 뿐만 아니라 인체에 유익한 기능성을 가지고 있으므로 제주복식문화의 계승과 발전을 위해 연구의 필요성이 크다. 본 연구에서는 한국의류시험연구원에서 제작된 백면포, 백견포, 백레이온포, 백나일론포에 제주돌감으로 염색한 후 원포, 감즙염색포, 세척포의 형태, 표면반사율, 광선투과도, 중량, 인장강도, 마모강도, 드레이프성, 발수성, 항균성을 측정하여 검토하였다. 감즙염색은 염색효과 외에 섬유간 접착 및 coating효과가 있어서 천의 내구성을 증진시키며 푸새를 한 것처럼 뻣뻣하게 하고 탁월한 자외선 차단성을 부여한다. 발수상 및 항균상도 생기며 이와 같은 효과들은 반복세탁후에도 유지된다.

KalOt was made from fabrics dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The cotton, silk, rayon and nylon fabrics were dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The properties of natural fabrics, dyed fabrics and dyed fabrics followed by washing were measured. The scanning electron micrograph, surface reflexibility, transmittance of light, weight, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, drape property, water repellency, antibacterial property were analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. Coating effect was given by dyeing according to the scanning electron micrographs. 2. Colour of dyed fabrics became darkened as a function of exposing time to sunlight. 3. Blocking effect of ultraviolet light and visible ray was increased by dyeing in all fabrics. Especially dyed cotton fabric blocked UV light perfectly. 4. Weight was increased by dyeing in all fabrics. 5. Tensile strength of cotton increased by dyeing. 6. Abrasion resistance was increased by dyeing in all fabrics. 7. Drape coefficient was increased by dyeing in all fabrics. 8. Water repellency was given by dyeing in cotton fabric. 9. Antibacterial property was given by dyeing. In a word the dyed cotton fabric has perfect blocking effect of UV light, stiffness, endurance, water repellency and antibacterial property. And the effect was remained after 9 washings. Therefore astringent unripe persimmon juice dyeing is a very useful textile finishing.

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