의복 여유량 산출을 통한 남성복 재킷 패턴 제도 공식의 정확성 검증

Accuracy Verification of Men's Jacket Pattern Drafting Formula through Ease Allowance Calculation

Background/Objectives: The purpose of present study is to verify the size prediction accuracy of pattern drafting formulas through the trend line drawing for anthropometric data and ease allowances calculation. Methods: Pattern drafting formulas were investigated from 6 men's jacket textbooks. A scatter plot with the y-axis as the predictor variable and the x-axis as the input variable in each formula was created using Size Korea data. A trend line was drawn on the scatter plot to observe the change in ease allowance, and to determine the formula that showed the most accurate slope. Correlation analysis and regression analysis were conducted to derive the pattern drafting formulas supplementing problems of analyzed formulas. Results: For ‘armscye depth’, method A was confirmed to be most suitable, and a drafting formula using both chest circumference and height was recommended. For 'waist back length', method E showed the best results, and the explanatory power was the highest when the total length was used. For ‘side waist to hip length’, it was recommended to use direct measurements. For ‘back neck width/2’, it was found that using the neck circumference was appropriate. The ease allowance on ‘armscye width’ was excessively reduced according to the increase of chest circumference since the flatness of the human body was not reflected in the drafting formulas. To remedy this problem, it was recommended to use both bi-shoulder length and back neck to ground length for ‘front width’, and use only bi-shoulder length for ‘back width’. Conclusion/Implications: Since the analyzed men's jacket pattern drafting textbooks did not reflect the actual change of Korean men's body size, a correction of drafting formulas using Size Korea data is needed.