신라 上代 朝服의 존재와 용도

A Study on the Existence and Usage of Jobok in Sangdae Period of Silla

본고는 중국 정사의 韓傳·新羅傳 중 풍속 관계 기사를 통해 신라 上代 朝服의 존재·용도에 대해 논의한 것이다. 한전은 마한인이 조복의 의미·용도를 이해하고, 조복을 위신재로 활용했음을 전한다. 마한의 조복·진한의 朝衣 등 용례는 마한·진한의 조복 활용 사례를 보여주며, 진한에서 조복을 활용한 경험은 신라에 영향을 미쳤다. 조복은 聽政·朝會에 쓰는 관복이므로, 신라에서는 南堂 聽政이 시작될 무렵부터 조복을 활용했다고 보인다. 『수서』~『신당서』, 新羅傳의 服色·朝服 관련 기사는 계통성을 지닌 기사로, 중국의 신라 이해도가 낮은 상황에서 신라의 대중교류 증대에 따라 유관 정보가 증보된 것이다. 이것과 色服志의 序文을 함께 고찰하면, 진평왕대를 비롯한 중고기에 백색 조복이 활용되었다. 상고기에 조복은 관인 공무 전반에 활용되었다. 중고기 초 관인의 從省服·略服·常服인 공복이 제정되며 조복은 具服·正服이 되었겠지만, 조복의 용도는 축소되었다. 따라서 신라 上代 관복제는 상고기에 조복만으로 운영되었고, 중고기 이후에는 조복·공복이 별도 계통을 이루어 운영되었다.

The study examines existence and usage of jobok(朝服), which is attire of cabinet council, in Sangdae(上代) period of Silla based on the records related to the custom from 「Hanjeon(韓傳)」 and 「Sillajeon(新羅傳)」 in Chinese official history books. 「Hanjeon」 illustrates that Mahan people understood meaning and purpose of jobok that was treated as prestige goods. Taking an example of Mahan's jobok and Jinhan's Joui(朝衣), which was also attire of cabinet council, there was a system of jobok in Sanggo(上古) period of Silla. As this official uniform was required to attend cabinet council, Silla used this system at least from the beginning of cabinet council in Namdang(南堂). Historical records with regard to jobok and its color described in 「Sillajeon」 from 『Suseo(隨書)』, 『Buksa(北史)』, 『Gudangseo(舊唐書)』 and 『Sindangseo(新唐書)』 have a systemicity. It means that with China's lack of understanding of Silla, relevant information was supplemented as Silla's public exchange had increased. Considering this point and a preface of 「Saekbokji(色服志)」 of 『Samguksagi(三國史記)』 in which dress color's biographies are portrayed, white jobok was utilized during Junggo(中古) period of Silla, including the reign of King Jinpyeong. During Sanggo period, jobok was worn for general official duties such as attending cabinet council and envoy exchanges. In the early Junggo period, gongbok(公服) was established with jongsengbok(從省服) and yakbok(略服) which both mean casual uniform, and also sangbok(常服) that officials wore as everyday uniform. In the mean time, jobok was regarded as a formal uniform, gubok(具服) or jeongbok(正服). However, it's usage became low. That is to say, regarding an official uniform system in Sangdae period, jobok prevailed in Sanggo period, but the system of jobok and gongbok were separately operated from the beginning of Junggo period of Silla.