冠帽硏究(1) - 7C~13C 복頭受容이후의 韓國과 日本의 冠帽를 중심으로 -

A Study on Kwan Mo(I) - in 7C~13C of Korea and Japan -

In Silla(統一新羅) Dynasty, under the influence of Tang(唐) Dynasty, we had used Bokdoo(복頭) from the king to the ordinary people classified by its raw material, which had mainly been very soft cloth with a sort of trail. In koryo Dynasty, two kinds of Bokdoo(복頭) were used widelv-one made of soft cloth and the other made of more stiffened material. Sadae Moollagun(四帶文羅巾) of Koryo Tokyung(高麗圖經) had been original Bokdoo(?頭) of soft material and Ohkun(烏巾) with two bands which had been worn by high-ranking government officers and upper-class people were known as Sookack Bokdoo(垂脚복頭) of soft material. Our traditional Byunsang Kwanmo(弁狀冠帽) had been used in parallel with Bokdoo(복頭)therefore History of Heargear in our country was evolved in doubly strured veriation from our own tradion and Chinese influence. In Japan, at 12th year of Chun Moo(天武) they imported Bokdoo(복頭) of Tang(唐) Dynasty and used it as formal headgear(its name was 漆紗冠), and their traditional cone shaped or bag-shaped headgear called Gyukwan(圭冠) as informal headpiece, these usage was Japanese headgear had been applied in two different variation of Chinese and Japanese tradition, their own trditional usage was seemed to have obviously corelated with our Byunsang Kwanmo(弁狀冠帽) of ancient. Chilsakwan(漆紗冠) had changed in many different shapes, developed into 「○○ kwan」 and had been used with formal custom or many other special occasion, Gyukwan(圭冠) had been caned Ohmoja(烏帽子) at Pyungan(平安) age, had been loved by royal family as well as ordinary people in various shape, had been used widely at the end of Pyungan(平安) and Gyumchang(鎌倉) age. Wide usage of Ohmoja(烏帽子) had been reasoned the formalization of the custom which had been worn with Ohmoja(烏帽子), and some of the costoms had been chosen as the supreme uniform of military officers, could be found the ascension of military family in the Japanese society. Accordingly, the main trend of Japanese two Kwanmo 「○○ kwan冠」 and Ohmoja(烏帽子) had long been evolved from ancient times, into totally different shape which looks completely unique, not related with Chinese Bokdoo(복頭) nor our Byunsang kwanmo(弁狀冠帽), through their own transition. It also says something about characteristic inherence in the Japanese Culture.