중국 위진남북조시대 金蟬紋과 金步搖冠의 시원과 전개

The Origin and Development of Gold Cap Ornament with Cicala figure and Gold Boyo (“step-sway”) Ornaments in the Era of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties of China

한대의 근간을 둔 위진남북조시대의 복식제도에서 특징적인 면은 북방이민족들의 금제장신구에 대한 취향이 반영되어 금제 冠飾이 관모와 결합되는 양상이라고 할 수 있다. 山形 금제장식판에 매미모양의 蟬紋이 장식된 금선문당은 채옹이 지은『獨斷』등의 漢代 문헌에서 武官이 쓰는 관의 요소로 확인이 되나 실물은 4세기 중반으로 편년되는 동진의 南京大北園墓에서 처음 발견되었다. 남경대북원묘는 동진의 황실묘일 가능성이 제기되어, 황제도 금선문당을 착용하였을 가능성을 엿볼 수 있다. 매미와 산이라는 모티프로 구성된 금선문당은 중국 고유의 道敎思想인 昇仙과 관계가 있는 것으로 파악되었다. 금선문당은 남조지역 이외에도 북조에서도 일정하게 확산되는 양상이 확인된다. 이는 북방이민족들이 남조의 관제를 수용하면서 생긴 양상인데, 북조에서는 여성이나 어린아이의 무덤에서도 금선문당이 확인되어 흥미롭다. 이는 본래 북방에 연원을 가진 무관이 북조에서 유행되면서 일어난 현상으로 파악된다. 즉 금선문당이 부착된 관을 전 계층에서 착용하면서 생긴 양상인 것이다. 걸으면 흔들리는 관인 步搖冠 역시 문헌에서는 漢代에 여성의 머리 장식으로 처음 등장한다. 금제보요관이 유행하게 된 것은 모용선비와 탁발선비의 관식으로 사용된 이후이다. 여성의 首飾으로 사용된 한대의 보요관은 북방이민족인 선비족의 보요관과는 재질이나 형식면에서 다른 계통으로 판단된다. 위진남북조시대에 보요관이 전폭적으로 유행하게 된 것은 북방이민족인 모용선비에 의해서였다. 모용선비묘장에서 보요관은 3세기 단계에서 확인되며 4세기 전반까지 집중적으로 출토된다. 그리고 前燕, 後燕, 北燕이 도읍하였던 遼寧省 朝陽에서 주로 출토되는 지역적 특징이 보인다. 보요관이 거의 사라지는 5세기 초반 풍소불묘에서는 금선문당과 보요관이 결합되는 양상을 보인다. 4-5세기에 이르면 일정하게 북조와 남조의 관식이 서로 영향을 미치면서 발전한다. 선비족 특유의 보요관에 동진양식의 금선문당이 더해지고, 남조의 금제장식에 북방 보요가 더해지는 양상이 전개되는 것이다. 이 단계에서는 매미의 요소는 사라지고 산형장식으로 간략화 되는데, 이와 같인 남북조 융합양식이 고구려, 백제, 신라가 병립하였던 삼국시대 우리나라 관식에 일정하게 채용된다.

The Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties was a period in the history of China that lasted from 220 to 581 AD. Though an age of civil war and political chaos, it was also a time of flourishing arts and culture. There were numerous movements of people within China. The movement were occasioned by differrent circimstances, and the end results were the redistribution and mixing of entnic groups. This study analyzed the exchange aspects of the Han tribe and the northern local gentries through examining the origins and development process of traditional ornament of the Han Chinese, the gold cap ornament with cacala figure(金蟬紋) and the Gold Boyo(金步搖”step-sway). Characteristic thing in the costume system of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties of China, which was based on the Han dynasty, is that gold diadem is combined with official hat by reflecting the taste of northern migrants’ gold ornaments. The gold cap ornament with cacala figure is identified with military hat in the Han literature entitled Arbitrariness by Chaong. The real object was discovered in the Namgeongdaebukwon(南京大北園) tomb of Dongjin, recorded chronologically in the mid 4th century first. Namgeongdaebukwon tomb is estimated to be the tomb of the imperial family of Dongjin, and emperor also wore the gold cap ornament with cacala figure, which was composed of motifs with cicada and mountain in association with the taoism of China. The gold cap ornament with cacala figure is identified to have been spread in the northern region as well as the southern region uniformly. This phenomenon occurred because northern migrants accepted the coronet system of the southern region. In the case of the northern region, it is intriguing that the gold cap ornament with a cacala figure is identified in the tombs of women and children. It is assumed that this happened due to Wuguan are originated from the northern region. In other words, this shows the aspect that people of all classes wore Wuguan that attaches the gold cap ornament with a cacala figure. Gold Boyog(金步搖), which is shaky while walking, emerged as women’s head ornaments on the Han dynasty, according to literatures. The popularity of Boyogwan(步搖冠) began after using diadem ornaments of Murong Xianibei(慕容鮮卑) and Tuoba Xianbei(拓拔鮮卑). Boyogwan of Han dynasty, which was used as women’s ornaments, is judged to be a different system from Boyogwan of northern immigrants in terms of quality and form. Boyogwan became popular in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties of China by Murong Xianibei, northern immigrants. This name was originated from the fact that these people liked wearing boyogwan, usually worn by women. The Boyongwan, which was used by Murong Xianibei was different from that of Han dynasty, which puts its technical origin in Boyogwan of Central Asia. Boyo technique, made by cutting thin gold plate, affected Boyo ornaments of women in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, and Tang and Song dynasties. Boyogwan in Murong Xianibei tomb was identified in the stage of the third century, and these diadem ornaments were excavated intensively before the first half term of the fourth century. In addition, these ornaments have the regional characteristics in that they were chiefly discovered in Zhaoyang, which was the capital of the Former, Later, and Southern Yan. In the era of early 5th century, which was the disappearing time of Boyogwan, the gold cap ornament with cacala figure and boyogwan were combined in the Pungsobul(馮素弗) tomb.